Friday, May 30, 2014

Hawksbill Cay and points North

After spending some time at Staniel Cay the weather laid down again and we found ourselves an opportunity to move North through the Exumas, Chub Cay, Bimini and possibly across the Gulf stream to the United States so it was time to get going. The weather window was predicted to be one of the longest spanning windows the area had seen in quite a while. So the onus was on us to take advantage of it if we wanted to get back to the United States so we could fulfill obligations that were approaching.  Given the weather we had been dealt up to this point, and how consistent the forecasts were becoming we had no choice but to get going.

 And move we did. Some of the passages may not seem like much because of the short distance, but everyone has to understand we move at about 8 nm/hr. So a mere 30 nautical miles turns into five or six hours. Wait, that math does not add up you say? Ok, add in stowing in preparation the night before, cutting all of the umbilical cords and stowing them along with lines, maneuvering out of a marina and into clear water, and then slogging through the chop etc. to the point you are ready to reverse the process or pick up a mooring ball which is certainly more simple for the initiated. So now that I have laid down the basis for the excuse of going as far as Hawksbill from Staniel, that was our first stop. A mere 31.4 nm from Staniel Cay Y/C to the mooring field provided by the Bahamas National Trust at Hawksbill.

This was one of the most pleasant mooring fields we have had the good fortune to visit. With wind and water out of the East we were in the lee. As anyone can see the boat sat well and we had a very peaceful night here. But this one photo does nothing to present just how scenic this spot is. The 360 degree view from this vantage point is without a doubt one of the best I have seen throughout all of the years Deb and I have traveled the Carribean. That, and there are what seems dozens of park sponsored beaches to hang out of for a picnic lunch. And no one else is around. Ask the couple that was skinny dipping when we blew by in the dink at 20 knots. I am sad to say she was quick to react.
  But after a restful night on the mooring, we motored on up to Nassau. Our goal was the Palm Cay Marina because JJ the dock master had us booked for a night. To get up there, it meant traversing the "dreaded Yellow Bank" or going West of it and then North into Nassau. We opted to traverse the bank and we are glad we did. All of the chartography we had which included the soft copy of the Explorer Charts indicated we had plenty of water to make the passage. That, and the forecast was for calm weather. So we took that option and it paid off. We had plenty of time to react to coral heads we approached and once on the bank in calm water we could proceed slowly across water that was more shallow.

After filling up the tanks at the more reasonable price of 5.11 a gallon for diesel, we tied up and went to the on site restaurant for lunch.Walking in, we were soon presented with the fact that they were CLOSED. Damn. Anyway, the waiter who was in early hooked us up with a couple of very good personal pizzas and we were good to go with a couple of very cold and refreshing Kaliks.
 I have to admit the facility is laid out well, and has all of the amenities required for a very pleasant stay. That, and with all of the coral fronds on the South side of Nassau/New Providence I am sure a few nights at this place via boat would be a great time. But we had to make tracks. Weddings in the States were coming at us and we were committed to going. We could have stayed here a few nights and had a great time with the dink, but we had to keep going since the weather was good.
 So the next leg took us through Nassau Harbour and up across North West Channel to Chub Cay.
This place has had some very tough times. It has potential to be a stellar stop on the way to and from the Exumas but the project plan is ass backwards. The amenities favor home owners instead of transient boaters that will keep the restaurant going. The "members only" section of the restaurant was DEAD but the fringe areas were packed. I guess exclusivity has its price but the notion here, is if you want that place to be ready when you show up for your two week vacation, perhaps you should cater to the people that frequent the place more often than you do? Oh well.
 The place has a great pool but the water was not properly treated. There are signs of improvement in the offing, and we heartily wish the development well on its recovery. This development has all of the best working for it provided that can be pulled together. Once that happens it will be worth the price they are currently asking. The current dockage rate, and treatment of transients by the restaurant encourage alternative destinations as well as anchoring out. But we are glad we stopped in because it was a welcome stop in a long passage to Bimini.
 Bimini. This is the first step towards culture shock associated with the return to the United States. it was after all the Memorial Day weekend where everyone BBQs instead of remembering the fallen. Not only do they BBQ but the take off in their boats invading places close to home like Bimini.
 I don't blame the Bahamians for being sick of Americans. They landed at Bimini in droves and pitched wakes everywhere. Their stereos were loud and their egos flared. But oh well, we had to make time and fortunately we found a spot at Brown's Marina. Or so we thought. The locals had a rap fest next door that lasted well into the morning. Then Brown's charged us more than we bargained for over the phone. With that, Bimini is off the list. If I can avoid it I will never go back. It's mayhem on the water that is no escape from........

 Peanut Island. On Memorial Day Weekend. Everyone was out in their boat and the area was packed with boats and people swimming, wading, jet skiing, and playing tag with the dink we were towing through all of this.
 Talk about making a mistake. We should have never boated through this area during the holiday. But it is what it is, and we managed to get through this AND the Cross Roads up by Manatee Pocket without any serious incident. I thought I was going to lose it when the dweeb pulled up along side the dink and looked at the contents but fortunately he didn't see anything of interest. Welcome home.
 But continuing on we found ourselves at Sunset Bay Marina, cheaper fuel and a bar with some of the best appy's you can find at their restaurant Sailor's Return. With calamari, an eggplant stack, and spring rolls washed down with a couple of safe arrival cocktails order was restored and we camped out waiting for the next two days of travel home.

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