So "What it is?"

 What it is, is that we are well entrenched into life on Elbow Cay now having spent a month up at the Hope Town Inn and Marina, and another couple of months down at Sea Spray. Given we will be here at Sea Spray until Spring says something about our preference, but the decision to stay at Sea Spray walked a very fine line. Quite a bit happened since the beginning of December when I last posted. Deb's mom passed away on New Year's Eve, maintenance on the boat has been performed, and new friends have been made. All in all, things are well and well, things are things.  The kicking off of the holiday season usually means a traditional Thanksgiving dinner and we were very fortunate to be invited. Think of it, great food and no dishes. What a deal!
 Many folks descended on Chapter X for a Thanksgiving feast. We all brought something along but Phyllis as usual outdid herself by providing two turkeys and all of the sides one could hope for. Loraine provided some awesome pumpkin ice cream, Deb made four appetizers, others brought wine, and wow, did we all eat a terrific meal. It's a fair bet to assume everyone left well fed and ready to call it a night. And that takes us into December.  
 Early in December we packed up and left the Hope Town Inn and Marina for Sea Spray. This was always in the plan. Exactly when it would happen was not, but with a Junkanoo occurring at Sea Spray coincident with Christmas the move was desirable early enough to experience that without logistical issues. Arriving in time to get a good slip was important to us but moving on was difficult.
 We like to split our time between various places since variety is a good thing, and our time in Hope Town Harbour was most enjoyable. The marina has come along tremendously and we cannot say enough about it and the people that work there. Anyone who ties up there will enjoy their stay! The harbour is a busy spot and there is quite a bit available there to facilitate daily life. Stores are convenient. The restaurant at the HTM is very good and even when Bahamas Electric Corp. cannot supply power, HTM has a back up generator that supplies power to the docks! Amazing. This is a first as far as our experience with marinas goes, bar none. We were very happy to discover the marina generator came online Thanksgiving when the power went out after I put a Turkey in the electric oven for Phyllis.
 Arriving at Sea Spray got us a little more conveniently located nearby establishments like Firefly, Cracker P's, Lubbers Landing, etc.. We stopped in at Firefly for lunch and as we gazed out over the Sea of Abaco, a 1946 Kolby fishing boat moved South towards the White Sound Marker. No. I did not know what kind of boat that was upon sighting it. However, Deb decided that since it was just past low tide, that they were headed for the bar blocking the White Sound channel and that they would run aground. I said no way anyone owning a boat like that would allow that to happen. Seriously. This discussion occurred as we watched it move by. Finishing our lunch we pulled our heavy selves up from our chairs overlooking the Sea of Abaco and piled into Madonna.
 We shot out onto the flat water and rounded the White Sound marker to find the Laura D piled up on the bottom, but well within the correct passage into White Sound. So both Deb and I were correct. She said it would be aground, and I said it would not happen on the bar. This was when we met Laura, Stan and Mom. We asked if they needed anything and the answer was a polite no. I was going to take photos but declined for their sake. I should have taken the photos and given them copies because, after a while they pulled into Sea Spray when the rising tide granted them access.  EZ-pass is not accepted at the White Sound marker unless you have a draft less than 5 feet.

 And then it was Christmas, which brought the Spring City Rockers to Sea Spray. What a show. If you have not been to a Bahamian Junkanoo, you have not seen what has to be one of our favorite experiences. Don't get me wrong, the Thanksgiving parade in NYC is great, but having a great parade in warm weather is better. I was lucky enough to meet one of the elders that keeps the tradition going, and it's a good activity that keeps the kids and older folks with young thoughts busy.
 Of course, after Christmas we have New Years Eve and we decided it was time to have dinner out on the town. Sea Spray's menu looked the most appealing prior to moving from Hope Town thus adding to the incentive to get here before the holidays. We were not disappointed with dinner, in fact it was delicious. Several courses came our way and everyone of them was well received and consumed. Junior's band The Islanders came together for a long over due appearance and as usual it wasn't long before they had everyone up and dancing to a mixture of hits that are local to the Bahamas and the USA. Getting back to the boat after a great night out I thought I would check email and that is when we found out that Joan had passed earlier that evening.
 So the arrangements to get North started immediately and before we knew it we were in NYS where we encountered the stuff they call snow. Being used to sand and flip flops we found ourselves totally outside our comfort zone and it wasn't long before I had my second cold of the Winter season. This one had me wondering if it was TB the cough was so bad. Now, as I write this, we read the Kingston newspaper and find out, guess what? There's TB in Kingston! Fortunately we were not impacted by this it was merely a sinus infection that migrated down to my lungs in the usual fashion. In spite of the onslaught of the illness arriving we managed to get out to some of our favorite places with some great people and have a good time regardless of the reason for our travel. As well, we are very grateful for all the people that showed up to send Joan off and a special person named Kim who helped us set up a lunch for everyone at the last possible minute. It wasn't long after lunch before we found ourselves at Ship to Shore for "the drowning of sorrows". Good appetizers were piled onto the not so distant lunch along with a number of beverages making for a taxi ride back to Rich's place where sleep came quickly. It came so fast I woke up at 3 AM fully clothed with a blanket over me wondering what hit me. At this point I think it's safe to say the last cognac Shaun bought did me in. Moving on we went over to Ted's place and proceeded to help him sort things out and get on with his new life. Time went by quickly with all the work we were doing, and then we were back at Sea Spray with calm water and winds. So we got out into the dink and re-acclimated ourselves to the environment. We hooked up with a gang of folks here at Sea Spray and took off for Sandy Cay. The notion was to get into the water and do some snorkeling. At least we made it as far as Channel Cay before Debbie hit the reset button on this idea. The Atlantic swells were getting deep into North Bar and near breaking at Channel Cay.
 So after the ensuing marital moment caused by the fact we were the only ones turning back, we moved on to the West Side of Sandy Cay via the shallow water in the lee of the Cays where the swells were not. We looked around for everyone else, but were not able to locate them on the other side of the Cay and given this we gave up and made for the water behind Iron Cay since the tide was coming in. That was where we met Ray again. No dink trip would be complete with annoying Ray but this time we managed to glide over without stirring him up.
 Since this was a rather long dink ride a stop at Cracker P's for a beer with some smoked fish dip was appropriate and it did not disappoint. I have to admit they repaired the dock damage caused by hurricane Sandy in what seemed like less than a week. Not bad for the outer islands where high end tooling is scarce and elbow grease it plentiful. The dock has been restored back to its former self leading up to the ice cold beer and terrific views. It is indeed challenging to get up and move on once the view sets in. It makes it tough to cram things like maintenance into this busy schedule. But it has to happen so the teak rails, swim ladder steps, bow pulpit and name boards all have a fresh finish with Cetol on them. Freedom looks and feels a bit better for this.
  Along with the teak work new membranes went into the reverse osmosis water maker and finally, after 4 years, it looks as though Village Marine has turned the corner and gotten their membrane's quality in order. We finally, after all this time are getting water at a good TDS level and productivity rate. At this point, I'll say the water we make aboard Freedom is better by a factor of at least two, when compared to the reverse osmosis water available around the Bahamas. While that water is certainly potable and wholesome, we have found that once the water maker is online, it is convenient when we are remotely located.
 So here we are in February, and Phil has declared Spring will be early this year! Whether or not we move back to the States to celebrate that depends on his accuracy, and how well Freedom holds up.
 I've started a new folder with photos, I'll get around to descriptions when we have time. A new link for GPS data for 2013 is available as well.

 Bahamas 2012-2013

Settling into the Elbow

 We've been on Elbow Cay a little over three weeks now and we're getting acclimated to life on the boat again. It's about time we were getting used to the boating life given we've been aboard Freedom for 6 weeks.
 Initially the temperature was warm and the wind light. Without a functional generator we were concerned about our supplies since the inverter's bank of batteries is finite. We rarely let the inverter drain them for more than 12 hours before we give them a complete recharge. At 1200 dollars for a set of batteries we like to go easy on them. If another storm caused an extended power outage we were going to be in a difficult position that depended on one of the alternators associated with the engines. While they have decent output at 90 amps, running up the engine to charge the batteries would certainly make enemies in the harbour. So after removing the bad parts from the generator we knew what we needed and ordered them from Don Hillman Power Systems in Fort Lauderdale.
 I have to admit they were very good at locating the parts and getting them out to us in very short order. Normally marine parts are not subject to import duties so we were surprised to see a couple of hundred dollars tacked on to the package by Fedex! As it turned out the documentation we shipped over via email was somehow removed from the package thus there was no proof that I purchased it, and that it was bound for a boat. That meant I had to pay the duty or the parts would go back to the States. After some emails and phone calls, Don Hillman Power stepped up and reimbursed us for the duty charges while they work out the issue with Fedex. With all of the parts installed and the system flushed out, new antifreeze poured in, the genny fired up and ran a good load for an hour so it seems that situation has been resolved.
 That resolution put our minds at ease and we moved on to important things like beach combing, hooking up with the gang over here again, refinishing teak, and generally speaking, chilling out.
 As a matter of beach combing we have walked the entire East Coast of Elbow Cay and while there is a noticeable change in the dunes, most of the houses were not damaged by Hurricane Sandy. However the bulldozer is back pushing sand back into place for the second year in a row. Some houses seem to be particularly prone to beach erosion due to their location with respect to reef structures or the lack there of. However workers are busy getting things back into shape and it won't be long before it's difficult to tell Sandy was in town.

 Houses located a little off the beach dunes were much better off as usual. Curly Tail's place remains unscathed offering him the luxury of basking in the sun outside the front door while others are sweating out repairs, improvements or accelerated maintenance. I thought we had the life but then we saw this place and wondered what his career was that left him so well off. Beer on the upper deck, two cars, a plane and a boat in the yard as well. Life's good. The lizard has been here at least 5 years that I know of and I have to admit he keeps this place well. That is, in spite of all the storms the place still looks great.

 But enough of the affects Sandy had on the Cay, it was our good fortune to get a day of calm winds leading to flat water on the Sea of Abaco and that can only mean one thing. Get out in the dink. With that we took off in Madonna and went around the West side of Lubbers to one of Deb's favorite shelling beaches. It wasn't long before we found a number of interesting shells to add to our collection. Moving on from Lubbers we headed South West until we arrived at Snake Cay inlet. This spot generally offers some excellent views of spotted rays but today there were none around. It could have been the run about that shot into the inlet before us but I am thinking the tide was dead low and they left for deeper waters. Since the view lacked the usual water life we left and went back North and stopped in at Lubbers Landing on the East side of Lubbers Cay.
 Here we split a fish burger and had a beverage while enjoying the excellent view of Tiloo Cut.Once lunch was finished we finished up our day on the water with the ride back to Hope Town.

The Trip to Hope Town

 As to how this trip stands up against those past, generally speaking we had an excellent ride weather wise. We chose to move the boat with the weather and ignore some maintenance until we arrived in our slip at the Hope Town Inn and Marina. This meant a quick departure from North Fort Myers on 10/16 when we saw a Gulf Stream crossing opportunity approaching on the upcoming weekend. We hustled out and made our way across Lake Okeechobee only to discover a raw water pump failed on the port engine. This was a God send because it forced us to skip the opportunity to cross the Gulf Stream in very favorable conditions. While the crossing would have been very calm, staying in the Bahamas during a hurricane like Sandy leaves a little to be desired.
 Fortunately, we did not have to wait long for another opportunity to cross the Gulf Stream  and the folks at Sunset Bay were their usually great hosts allowing us to take advantage of the monthly dockage rate. In spite of being stuck there for hurricane Sandy and being stuck on the boat for an extended time, it all worked out very well. With the wind blowing 30 to 40 knots we were constantly being blown off the dock which stretched the lines and prevented us from keeping the stairs installed. Since I have long legs I could get onto the dock and bicycle for supplies but Deb was stuck aboard rocking around 24/7 for at least three days. Cabin fever was evident and constant. The lines had to be tweaked regularly and chafe guards had to be re-installed as well.
 But we caught another great weather window on  11/3 and left Sunset Bay for the North Palm Beach marina where we spent the night in anticipation of leaving for West End early the next day. We had been kicking around whether or not to leave on Monday or Tuesday but once again the threat of bad weather closing the window left us no option but to pick Sunday as the departure day and so it was. Out on the water early we had the sun right into our faces and it was warm. We were glad when the sun rose enough to be blocked by the hard top over the helm. Initially as we looked out at the horizon we saw calm water and continued on. Instead of the 1-2 feet of waves at 12 seconds which would have been very calm we had 2 feet at about 4-6 seconds, on the beam, and we rolled. Not terribly but enough to make walking around aboard Freedom challenging.
 However once we were in the Gulf Stream several miles off shore, things settled down and the ride was comfortable. Moving around on Freedom became much easier so the monotony of sitting in one spot for 8 hours was not required. In fact, I was able to leave the helm for a break once in a while. When the water is rough Dan has to stay put since the Admiralty does not enjoy driving the boat in those conditions.
 Arriving at West End we fueled up and cleared customs. I have to admit customs at West End seems to be one of the better experiences. Even on a Sunday. No extra "charges" were incurred and we were in our slip at a 25% discount thanks to our membership in the Royal Marsh Harbour Yacht Club. http://www.rmhyc.com/ If you boat in the Abacos joining up is a very good idea. Plenty of good folks and activities at Boat Harbour. We didn't walk around Old Bahama Bay much because we intended to stay one night and take advantage of the good weather to cross Little Bahama Bank to the East Side. Having stayed at Spanish Cay in the past that was our plan but calling ahead we learned they were still recovering from Sandy and could not offer good services at that time. Hopefully they have resolved the weeds in the water issue and their restaurant has re-opened. Not being able to stop at Spanish increased the length of our days travel to 100 nautical miles.

 Even though we left with the dawn our arrival at Green Turtle was projected to be after sunset and that turned out to be the case. If the weather had been foul our option to continue on would have been less appealing and perhaps have us staying at Great Sale or Crab Cay for the evening. But it was indeed very calm. The water was cloudy which made the long day stretch out a bit but since it was so calm and overcast it turned out to be an easy passage. The sky was so overcast and hazy that at times we could not discern the horizon and this made for an amusing moment. Of in the distance I saw and airplane coming at us and thought we were going to get buzzed yet again. What this was in reality was a boat coming at us. A smack on the back of my head brought me back from the doldrums of driving the boat all day in flat water.
 And if that didn't happen the alarm that started blaring would have done it anyway. We have an alarm on the boat that sounds for various reasons like oil pressure, high water, etc.. It can also be enabled to sound if the generator fails and we lose A.C. voltage. That happened and I quickly turned the helm over to Deb and went down into the salon area which was air conditioned. Not really wanting to open up the hatch that is over the space between the engines, I did anyway and a thick cloud of burnt rubber smelling smoke wafted up into our living room.
 Swell. That could mean fire.
 There was none and that was a very good thing because we were only half way to Green Turtle a little beyond Great Sale Cay. Seeing no fire or other immediate danger, I cracked the generator enclosure and found that the belt driving the antifreeze pump had parted company with the pulleys and was laying in pieces on the floor of the enclosure. So I shut the water inlet for the generator down, opened the windows and aired out the boat to get it habitable again. And we continued on with our stand by power inverter driving the freezer and ice maker. This change in our abilities forced the notion we were going to continue to Green Turtle upon us. Seeing boats wrecked by Sandy along the way we were not exactly encouraged.
 When we finally arrived at Green Turtle Cay the sun had set and our plotters had us going directly towards the inlet. Feeling unsure of the passage since reports indicated missing markers, we moved on and to our pleasant surprise the first two makers into White Sound were lit! Deb had our search light on the remaining markers and we made our way up to the Green Turtle Club docks where we spent the night yet again receiving a very good discount but this one came as a surprise to us. As it turned out they gave us a stout break because they were still recovering from Sandy and their restaurant was also closed.
 The next morning we took our time leaving the club which survived Sandy really well. They were busy putting in some new floors, drying out office supplies and memorabilia. Upon arriving at the Whale Cay channel we found water calmer than any we have ever experienced there and that was a relief. So our weather window was cooperative and we made it to the Hope Town Inn and Marina without any more issues, well almost. We filled up Freedom and the cost of fuel was 5.72 or so. At 120 gallons it adds up fast.
 In light of that last issue we decided, it's only money and went to lunch at the Hope Town Inn and Marina where Deb enjoyed the red conch chowder, and I had a blackened Mahi Rolly Polly. With a couple of cold ones, life was good!    

And it's time once again

 Normally we would leave the North East or more specifically the Kingston N.Y. area at this time of year and head South to Freedom which was stored on the hard somewhere in Florida. Since we sold the condo back last October and we were homeless over the Winter, and living on the boat over most of the Summer, we had no fall colors to fill our eyes this year. Oh well. Freedom stayed in the water except for a brief haul for bottom paint and other maintenance. Given all of these changes this view of the Caloosahatchee River during a regatta will have to suffice. This is a sunrise view as opposed to the usual sunset photos from the condo in Port Ewen we have provided in the past. But I like it. Instead of the sun going down in the Fall signifying the end of a day, what we have here is a good deal of energy heading out onto the river on sailboats at the beginning of a day.

 Mind you, this first photo is not an all encompassing view. In fact, it doesn't even cover a quarter of the boats that were on their way out onto the river. Maybe this second photo lends a little insight, but in my opinion, you had to be there to take it in. This was a wave of small sailboats all heading out at once. It makes me wonder what the shoreline activities were like because the number of boats leaving from the same location was very high. But it all looks like it went off very well. The winds were predictable and steady leading to what looked like an easy sail away from shore and onto the river.
 So instead of driving South with a carload of supplies for Winter, what we did have was the business of locating a new condo as well as the associated activities. We had to have the POD shipped South and unpack it. Then we flew North and rented a truck so we could drive the remaining furnishings stored by relatives in NYS back South. By the way this was a slightly better than "break even" task economically speaking.  If we had to do it again, we probably would have left it all behind with relatives and back filled it down here in Florida.
 With all of that behind us, we pulled out of the marina with Freedom loaded to the over the side thruhull fittings. There wasn't any room left aboard for supplies. I have to admit the chore of loading Freedom went much more easily this year because of the boat's proximity to the home. New batteries for the inverter went in with the help of my brother. Jon, I cannot thank you enough! Only 157 pounds each going into a very bad location in the bilge. Additionally various groceries and a freezer full also found their way aboard before we left for the East coast of Florida. As the time to leave approached we saw a window to get to the Abacos that was wide and calm. It was just what we were looking for to make the journey. We had shipments coming in and decided to leave them behind hoping our new neighbors would forward them along for us.The opportunity to get to the Abacos in three days of easy travel does not come frequently. Besides we wanted to scope out the Alligators on the canal across Florida. Even the large ones were shy this year and we were lucky to see a few swimming away from us as we approached them as slowly as we could.
 As it turned out, Freedom spit out a raw water cooling pump going across the Lake. It wasn't a very serious failure and thankfully it happened in fresh water. We were able to run on both engines all the way to Stuart where we stayed at the Sunset Bay Marina. A very accommodating place where Sam the dockmaster makes life easy and everyone looks to help. But that is our impression of living in Florida vs. the North East in general. It seems people are more pleasant down here because they don't have to deal with Winter. Anyway, the water pump set us back a day and we still could have crossed to the Bahamas that Saturday. However, with a new subscription to Chris Parker's weather service we learned that a low was going to develop and move through the Bahamas. His forecast was spot on, and convinced us that we should stay put since we lost the 3rd day of the window we needed to get to Hope Town.
 We all know how that turned out. Hurricane Sandy formed. It hammered the Abacos and moved on to wreak havoc in the North East United States. What a mess. It's difficult to comes to terms with the devastation this storm caused in the marine industry let alone housing. But then, they all had to know they were close to the shore and rolling the dice. Look out, yet again, a Nor' Easter is forming and this could be #2 in the 1-2 series. We certainly hope not!
 Stalling for a week due to a water pump was the best thing that could have happened to us. Eventually another window opened up, and we moved the boat to North Palm Beach, sat there a nite, and then early in the morning we moved to West End the Bahamas.
 It seems they fared well over here as far as Sandy goes. There is damage, but Old Bahama Bay is open for business and grateful to get any our sour economy is willing to deliver.

 
 

Some new paint and a new home

 Freedom made it through the stay on the hard well and went back into the water with some over due maintenance completed as well as the new coat of bottom paint. None of the maintenance we had performed was all that serious but it needed doing and adds a certain amount of comfort to our stay aboard.
 While Freedom took a break, we were staying at a hotel in Fort Myers Beach that offered us a great view of the Gulf of Mexico, and a pool but little else. So that gave us the incentive to look at all the property we could since we had decided the area we were in was where we wanted to settle in the foreseeable future. After all, Fort Myers Beach is really quite a pleasant stop but doesn't offer that much as far as good dining goes. It's somewhere between the Bahamas and the Jersey shore. Perhaps that offers too much leeway to consider but it's the best I can offer at this time.
 Eventually we settled on a condo in North Fort Myers. The area is on the outskirts of Fort Myers, and in a decent neighborhood. Yes, there are better areas nearby like Naples but the expense in that area is extreme so we avoided it. Cape Coral offered some really affordable housing, and we probably could have gotten one with a dock for Freedom. But Cape Coral has been beaten up by storms and all in all, it was a bit too residential for us. As far as Naples goes one realtor expressed it by saying "she'd rather be a pauper in Naples than live anywhere else". Having experienced the outlying areas of Naples that were affordable it was obvious we'd rather be a mulatto in Fort Myers in a nice place than a pauper in Naples. One thing we did learn about Florida was that for the most part no matter where you go within the areas we found interesting, you will have some sort of association fee regardless of owning a home or a condo. In our minds, the fees for some of the condos, were more in line with our expectations than many of the houses. Eventually we located a facility that had a very good blend of services at a reasonable price that was very competitive with a house. In fact it offered more for the money. 
 Once that decision was made, all sorts of other activity was initiated. The POD had to be shipped South and to the association. Arrangements had to be made to pick up the rest of our furnishings that had been scattered about various locations with relatives.

 When we finished packing the POD back last October, it was fully packed and everything was either in a box on a shelf that was strapped in with wide nylon tie downs, or it was wedged in with cushions and covers to prevent it from shifting. We actually planned the layout using a scale model of the POD and scale sized puzzle pieces. It was fun to have company experiment with the puzzle. All of that payed off well and virtually nothing was marred or otherwise damaged during the shipping and storage of the POD. I think perhaps one piece had a mar that looks like it will "buff out" but we haven't gotten to that yet. I will say that the 1/2 inch foam pipe insulation offered in Hope Depot can be folded up to make very effective cushions. Just put some tape around it to hold it in a flat configuration. Other helpful padding included cheap throw pillows from SAMs Club.
    So the POD eventually made it here and having Freedom to live on at the foot of the condo is a blessing. We could unload and unpack the POD and still have a very convenient place to crash after a hard days work in the heat. I easily lost almost 10 pounds moving everything around. When the POD was emptied and all of the contents had found their new place in the condo, we looked around and thought, we need more and there is more in NYS we have to get. So we made reservations for a flight, a car for errands up North and a truck to bring it all South.
 While we were up North we visited and as a matter of course, that 10 pounds I shucked while unloading the POD all mysteriously reappeared. In fact that brought along a couple of friends. The ride South didn't help any either since we subjected ourselves to quick meals at junk food havens over four days of driving.  All totaled it was 1435 miles from Kingston to the condo. Thank goodness the Ipod connected to the stereo in the truck, and more fortunately we were able to find a cable to recharge it at one of the truck stops we bought gas in. At 10 miles per gallon, do the math. The POD was actually a very good deal. Just make sure to pack it tightly, lash it down, and pad everything if you chose to go that route.
 On the way South we chose the (perhaps) less traveled route South via I81, I77 and then to I95 once back in South Carolina. When we arrived in Florida we crossed over to I75 via 301 through the likes of Lawley and Waldo. Once on 301 in Florida we were reminded of how lucky we are. Not only that, we are reminded of how easy it is to get nailed for speeding. We managed to escape any penalties and perhaps that was because of the warnings. Several miles outside of these towns there are full sized bill boards announcing "Lawley Speed Trap 2.5 miles ahead". When you get there, at the main intersection are a mess of police sitting around at the flashing school zone sign. By the way, there is no warning of reduced speed limits.
 But it's all good and we have arrived safely and in time to prepare Freedom for the impending arrival of Isaac. Whether or not this storm tracks right over us or not is still up for grabs and hopefully Freedom gets through it all. The condo has furniture and is now livable and it is certainly better than a beach front hotel room with a very noisy air conditioner, or another next to a rail road depot. 
 

Over the Lake to Ft. Myers

 The intention was to leave Sunset Bay Marina and head out across Florida hoping to get to the other side of Lake Okeechobee in time to find dockage well along the canal towards Ft. Myers. As it turned out the weather would not cooperate on June 6th for us to leave at the crack of dawn. There were some very strong cells nearby and they were traveling right across our intended path. Given the intimidation from the weather we stuck it out another hour and the situation improved. We left knowing that we would be pushed to make the far side of the lake when considering we had to clear a few locks in the canal. But the worst of it was that the locks were running on a strict schedule resultant from low water levels in Lake Okeechobee.
 Locking through can present some challenges to schedules and this day proved to clearly demonstrate the notion that schedules and boating are diametrically opposed to each other's end. Getting to the St. Lucie lock was uneventful and timed well enough. We found ourselves in line with several other boats but despite the 20 minute wait for the lock opening everyone was well spaced and cooperative. The passage through the lock was smooth and not the least bit aggravating as everyone followed the lock master's instructions.
 This left us with a long stretch of the canal before we would arrive at the Mayaka Lock on the East shore of Lake Okeechobee. Since the lake was low and the locks were running on a schedule we checked our distance and set our speed. That way we would arrive at the lock an an appropriate time thus limiting the amount of idling around waiting for clearance into the lock.
 However soon enough we arrived within radio range of the lock and heard there were issues associated with the doors. Transiting the lock was going to be delayed. In fact the lock master encouraged us to tie up at a marina until they had determined when the lock would be functional. After discussing this with the lock master via VHF radio, I checked this status on the Internet via our Verizon Air Card and found no reports or notices to mariners. Given this lack of incident reporting I looked up the local office of the Army Corp of Engineers and called to ask what was going on. Since they did not know about the issue, they promised to check into it and get back to us. While waiting for a call back we arrived at the lock and hailed the lock master. To our very pleasant surprise, the situation was resolved. Amazingly the electrical issues had been resolved even though the electrician was still an hour away. Subsequently the main office informed us they had never known this lock to break down. Interesting. Glad I called. Someone else may not have been very happy about the phone call.
 Anyway there were many of us delayed at the lock entrance and with the doors opened up we all passed through and onto Lake Okeechobee which was (fortunately) calm. Threatening storms were traveling South of the lake leaving us a clear weather passage across. It was about this time we discovered we had a hitch hiker aboard but we welcomed the company since it would be after bugs we did not want traveling with us. It moved around here and there and eventually joined us on the bridge where we attempted to feed it with bugs we had caught. None were accepted so perhaps we misjudged the health of our companion. The injury to the tail (click on the photo to see it) made us think a bird dropped it from altitude onto the aft deck hard top but eventually we figured it just hopped aboard using one of the lines fastened to the dock since it was lively enough.
 Across the lake and back into the canal we easily passed the construction area that was rumored to be a difficult passage and made our way to the town of Moore Haven City Dock. While there isn't much happening here, the stop is well received as a place to pull in for a night after a long day on the water. Note, don't go swimming here or just about any other place along the canal. There are plenty of alligators willing to make your acquaintance as a young local learned today (7/10/12). I have to say (I was going to say I have to hand it to him but that would be in poor taste) the young man had to be tough to get away with his life in spite of losing part of his arm. While alligators are shy and disappear as Freedom approaches, it is obvious after this attack that swimmers present no threat to their existence. If traveling in the canal down here keep a look out, and if you are close to the water surface, mind your environment frequently and carefully. While working on the outboard in the dinghy last year I was warned I had company approaching from a blind spot. It is rather uncomfortable to have them sneaking up on your as you sit on the tube of a dink with your back to them.
 But regardless we spent a restful night in Moore Haven, and left the next day for Ft. Myers. It all went well enough with only one incident involving a pushy captain at the Ortona Lock. He was in such a hurry to make the 1 o'clock opening of the Franklin Lock that he ignored all lock master orders and plowed through the canal out of order. All of us in the lock were happy to see him leave, and we were happier to see him held up at the Franklin Lock. As it turned out it was impossible for him to get there in time for the early opening in spite of his haste. He must have been waiting an hour for the lock to open when we arrived and pulled up right behind him. After entering the lock the master approached us and we had a pleasant, long conversation about lock manners and how the other boater was apologetic and concerned about our presence. Ok, I was a bit vocal on the radio at the prior lock. The master agreed the other captain was out of line, and asked if I had issues with him. I said no I did not, provided he behaved in this lock. He did, we all moved on, and yet again we had another hitch hiker we had to release upon arriving at the dock.
 Right now Freedom is on the hard taking a break. Her bottom is a bit scruffy so we have taken her to the yard to have it cleaned up. It shouldn't be long before she is floating again and we are back aboard using her as a base while we house hunt. The haul out had to happen. At full throttle she could only make 16.5 knots instead of 21 and her engines would over heat if we ran her there more than a few moments. Hopefully she acts better once she is back in the water with a clean bottom and a fresh coat of bottom paint.    

Road Trip!

 There are several of us sitting at West End Grand Bahama waiting for good weather to cross the Gulf Stream to Florida. Every now and again it looks good, like perhaps this last Friday. We all woke up early and looked over the weather with our VHF radios on. The stream looked fine, the wind looked good as well. But the radar for the Southern crossing from Miami to Bimini was all lit up, and it looked like it was moving North. Once reviewing that it wasn't long before we all shut off the radios and went back to bed. No one wanted to chance an encounter with severe thunderstorms in the open water.
 Later on we all realized we should have gone because it all stayed East of our lines of travel but as they say hind sight is a clear view of your own butt in public. It's also 20-20. With emotions running low and energy levels faltering due to poor sleep habits caused by the stress of the crossing, it was decided.
 ROAD TRIP!
 Me, being the easily swayed gullible fool (yet subsequently knighted) volunteered to rent a van and cart as many as could fit into it to Lucaya. I was only interested in going to Lucaya and that is the way I presented it to the folks sitting around the table at happy hour. Everyone agreed that was a good idea and that splitting the cost of travel was appropriate. So the next morning I rented the ride.
 We worked with Eric who is recommended by Old Bamaha Bay and he delivered us a van in great condition. It all worked, the A.C. was strong, the tires good and it was ready to roll. So we all piled in. I had five brave souls in my hands that were totally unaware of what I had done as a teenager in cars. They did however know an idiot drove his boat over us on Great South Bay N.Y., so apparently they had thick skin, were forgiving, or, had several transgressions in the automotive field that were on par or surpassed my antics dulling their senses.
 Anyway, we had about 9/16 of a tank of gasoline in the van when we pulled out. I had my cell phone and Glenn had his Ipad. What could go wrong? Pulling into Lucaya we stopped at the Market where all tourists of Grand Bahama pay homage. We walked around looking at the wares and past the conch fritter stand that Judy wanted to engage. Having sampled these in the past I discouraged the purchase and we went straight to the important matter of locating cheap booze. Having located this on the marina side of the Market, we loaded up and wound our way back to the van passing all sorts of T-shirt and craft type stores. Along the way it was decided that we were going to proceed past the Market for lunch to Bahama John's which is supposedly located nearby near the Bahamas National Trust Park which was just after the bridge over the canal. Deb had read reviews and found all were positive so it looked like a good mark. Foot on the pedal, hands on the wheel having loaded up the field trip I went off not remembering where we were or any of the driving I had done in weeks past down here. But with Deb's guidance we found ourselves (note I am sharing blame now) headed East out of Lucaya on our way to the lightly populated outback area of Grand Bahama.
 We paused while on the bridge over the Grand Lucayan Canal which has a vertical clearance for boats of 26 feet and looked over the turquoise water in both directions. Deb and I reflected on time we drove freedom through a brush fire for a bit and we moved on telling folks with us about how a little more down the road we wondered if we were going to be able to return because we had to drive the car past a brush fire near the road. I think it was at this point the outback environment, less than a 1/2 tank of fuel and our stories all combined in Stu's head because he asked, "So are you going to take us out here, dump us and take our money? Because all I have is 70 bucks and you can have it if you let me out now". Ok, I wore through that thick skin I assumed they all had. Not really. It was said in jest. I'm absolutely sure of it. I think. Anyway we were all laughing and it wasn't long before we were upon the park maintained by the Bahamas National Trust. I asked if we should stop and Deb suggested that the rib shack was close so we continued on. Deb said it was only a couple or three miles more. Stu is looking over my shoulder at the gas regularly now, I am giving Deb the evil eye because I did not want a long drive, the restaurant was new to us and everyone is wondering why they committed to sharing the expense of the van.

 I have to admit the years with me have prepared Deb for this experience well. Many remarks with regard to our predicament were articulated in a random fire, no, gatlen gun fashion. The quips started and they were relentless. I was no help because I was worried that I had led all of these people into this deal and had (ok only an ounce) concern for how it would work out for them. In reflection though what else were they going to do but sit on the boat (thanks for the absolution Glenn!). A sample of the remarks were all based on how long it took to get there and then find it closed for various reasons that included profiling, day of the week, how the owner felt, and the ability to find product out here.
 But we pressed on passing gas stations, an occasional establishment offering cold beverages, and miles of landscape that was not the least bit habitable or friendly to a 6 pack of people heading into no where. In fact I asked Glen who had the Ipad, "so Glen you hooked up"? "Yeah". "So where we going?" He said, "It looks like we are going into nowhere".
 With the Gatlen gun aimed at Deb and I since the gas was running lower and we passed gas stations, we slowed down a bit we arrived in High Rock where I saw a police station and BTC office. I pulled in and both were shut. Across the street was a clinic with a car in the lot so I walked in as another parked. Even though someone in that car was most likely infected with a highly contagious form of flesh eating bacteria I went into the empty clinic and knocked on the window. A young boy comes out and says wait. I indicate ok and the "flesh eaten" victims walk in. I look them over helplessly and consider they may be ok and ask if they know where Bahama John's is and she says oh, that place? It's out in Pelican Point, you cannot miss it. She was certain and confident. A good Bahamiam lady bringing her kid in for something. So I walk back to the van which is still running and sitting there. I consider that a good sign because they did not mutiny and leave Debbie in the police lot on the ground and drive off after running her over.
 I get in, and say it looks like Pelican point (almost to the end of East End Grand Bahama now) and the Gatlen gun starts spinning again. We're all pretty resolved to the notion that about a 1/4+ tank of gas left means turn around and we are not there yet. So we all pressed on. We had sincere reservations, but we pressed on. Deb got some ugly stares from me because remember, I did not want to pass Lucaya and we were well beyond that now.
 So we arrive in Pelican point and slow down. There's nothing there but houses. We have no options and continue on slowly, in a very depressed state of mind, to find a small sign pointing to a shack on the beach. It's Bahama John's!! So we have arrived. Upon looking at the place I was a bit set back on my heels because while there were cars there, we did not know if they were still in use, or abandoned by people that had eaten and died. But in we went.
 We were promptly greeted by Bahama John who stands as tall as I do but has all of his weight shows extremely well. When we shook hands it took effort to keep my arm from coming out of its socket. He went on to say I was well fertilized. I was going to say I also fertilize well but Deb was behind me and being the driver I was not going to have the advantage of alcohol to dull the pain if I opened my mouth.
  No one else was seated so we grabbed a table large enough for all of us. It was freshly wiped by the staff and the rag was clean containing some bleach that was obvious due to the smell. A good sign I thought. John goes on to make sure the welcome is adequately expressed in a booming voice that has positive tones and puts the mind at ease. He tries to ask a couple of questions about everyone so that he learns something about his customer base. He also talks about how long the trip is out to his place and how he has fallen asleep at the wheel since he drives from Freeport every day. And then he asks, knowing I was the driver, "So did you think he was taking you out here to rob you and dump your bodies?".
 Everyone looked at Stu (and me). The food came out in short order and it was without a doubt one of the best meals I've had in the Bahamas. So if you are looking for barbecue over here, talk to the man. He has it figured out. The beach here is also special and stretches quite a ways so walking the beach either before or after a meal is a good opportunity.
 Back at West End we thought about the next couple of days, and the weather. Stu stuck his nose out into the stream on Sunday and was immediately rejected. We all lent him quite a bit of respect due to the experience level he had judging the water.
 Eventually on this past Monday the water laid down and we all crossed over to the St. Lucie inlet. Using this inlet saved us a day on the ICW going North to the canal across Florida. While we all had some apprehension about the inlet, it proved to be easily navigated and we arrived at the Sunset Bay Marina for a rest stop on our way West.