North Palm Beach via the ICW

  Last night we took in a final sunset, and you knew this was coming, at the Sunset Bay Marina in Stuart Florida. Along with the Sunset came calamari at the Sailor's Return restaurant which is located on site at the marina. The evening started by sitting at the bar and being welcomed by Kelly who after one prior sitting remembered us and how we liked our drinks! Amazing, and she makes a great Mojito. Soon enough we had some freshly sliced calamari fried up in some kind of special seasoning with marinara, and we dug in. It was so good we ordered up a second batch. I really hate myself for not badgering them for the seasoning recipe it was that good. All in all I'll give it a 9 out of 10 which represents some of the best calamari we've had in about a year or so. Combining the view and good snacks together the evening was special enough and summed up our stay at the Sunset Bay Marina well. They have great staff here at the marina, and a good place to eat as well. The only thing this marina could use is a pool. With that it would be much more difficult to move on.
 But move on we did. We pulled out of our slip with the help of our neighbors at slack tide. This made it all quite easy especially since they gave the bow of Freedom a good shove. In no time at all we were outside the marina calling the Roosevelt Avenue bridge for an opening. Since this bridge is an "on demand opening bridge" we were treated to an immediate opening that allowed us to move on without delay. There's nothing like an easy start to a day of travel. As we moved along the St. Lucie river heading for the inlet we were treated to views of some very special houses. I have to say that it boggles the mind to think how many folks have so much cash that they can afford to build houses like these. They are all over the place down here and completely line the shoreline. I guess this is why America has such an issue with illegal immigration. All one has to do is review a few places like this to be convinced of the possibilities here in America. Kick it all you like, it certainly has worked well up to this point.

 Moving on we came into the Jupiter inlet area. The water there turns a brilliant turquoise and we thought to ourselves it would be terrific if it stayed that way as we left the inlet area. However soon enough the water color fades to dull green but the passage of the inlet is certainly scenic with the water color and the lighthouse standing proudly ready to mark the location with beams of light.
 And shortly afterwards we found ourselves in a slip at the Old Port Cover Marina on Lake Worth.

 The worst part of this move is we have put the car down for the season. It was left behind in Stuart and hopefully it will survive the Winter in good form and start for us when we return to it next year.

  

 

Still waiting on the weather

 But it's all good.  We had a great Thanksgiving dinner courtesy of Deb's talent in the kitchen, wait, galley. We are on the boat after all. It wasn't the largest turkey we ever cooked but its eight pounds just made it into Freedom's oven and after a good roasting it came out with stuffing as well as the rest of the trimmings including a hearty gravy. The local weather cooperated offering up a sunny warm view from the aft deck ensuring a pleasant environment for our early bird special at 2 pm.
 Since we have some spare time these days we took a few rides to have a look at property down here and while we were driving around in an area near the shore, on a lightly traveled road, Deb says did you see that hawk? I said no and she says it was in the tree just to your left off the road. So I backed up and sure enough there this hawk is sitting there about 6 feet from my window. It was certainly proud looking and I have to admit it was also patient enough allowing me to get a good photo. Certainly this was a rare opportunity. We were lucky to get such a good clear photo of one of Nature's best predators.

 All of this has tempered the urgency we have about getting across the Gulf Stream. Others have come and gone while we have stayed here at the Sunset Bay Marina in Stuart. We came close to leaving last Wednesday but decided to stay given the wind was going to pick up substantially on Thursday. While we would have made it across the stream the odds were against us making it around to the far side of Abaco the next day or so and having had a bad day on the bank between Spanish Wells and Nassau we elected to sit this one out in a more economical environment.
 Besides this allows us to get more work done on the boat.
 New VDO oil pressure gauges and senders went in and I have to admit this is probably the first time the oil pressure indications on the bridge were accurate and smooth. While we have mechanical gauges in the bilge for each engine, this adds up to a bit more confidence in the machinery while underway. A little less faulty gauge induced apprehension leads to less incentive to check the bilge while underway. With exhaust gas temperature, and solid oil pressure readings as well as a host of alarms we are now better suited to long days on the water without having to check the bilge every 15 minutes. For several years now we would open the salon floor and review the mechanical gauges I installed to ensure the engines had adequate oil pressure. It's one thing to depend on the alarms that are functional, and another to see how the pressure fluctuates within different environments. So now we can take some solace in the more accurate readings we have on the bridge. This will not obviate the need to perform frequent bilge checks but it does offer us some peace of mind while underway.
 Along with these upgrades we managed to get a second starting battery installed. This one was for the port engine. The starboard engine starting battery was one of the first things done after arriving at Stuart since it was relatively easy. In spite of it's 150 pound (plus) weight I was able to remove it from the battery box, bounce it to the center of the engine room, hoist it up about 3 feet to the salon floor, up onto the aft deck, down the steps to the dock, into the cart and then into the car. The only difference associated with the port side starting battery was that it had to be lifted up over the starboard battery before it came around in front of the engine to the center of the engine room. This is all a genuine test of forearm and back strength since this is performed on hands and knees in very tight quarters.
 In hindsight I, and my back, are glad we had a universal machine that I worked out on for several years. For one reason or another this chore went better than it did back in 2005 when I last changed out the engine starting batteries. Maybe the extra working our paid some dividends but regardless the residual effects will be resolved with a few Advils and a Margarita.
 So all of this waiting around is good. Things are getting taken care of in an environment more suited to the task. Parts are located close by and we still have not stored the car so we can travel as we wish. While we could have made due with the batteries for another year we'll sleep better knowing they will not need to be replaced over in the Bahamas at a premium price. Let's face it 190 bucks each at Sam's club is going to be a heck of alot better than anything we will come up with in the Abacos. As an example I believe West Marine wanted 400 dollars and more for a generic lead acid 8D. It's probably safe to include a 100% price increase for the pride of being in the Bahamas.
 However soon enough we will move because we are at least a day away from an inlet that offers safe passage to the ocean. Given all of the logistics we have to get closer to the ocean in the event an opportunity to cross the Gulf Stream arises.
 It's getting late in the season and we will take advantage of a one day window here and there to get going if that is what it takes. The notion is, that if we get stuck, we are at least a bit closer to the goal each time we have to wait on the weather.
 

Deb has Ray eating out of her hand.....

So today in an effort to blow off the stress of getting across the Gulf Stream we went to the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center on Hutchinson Island. It was a short drive from the marina in Stuart. Once on the island it offered us a chance to look out at the Atlantic / Gulf Stream to get a read on how things looked. It's not that we don't trust the forecasters. We just don't trust them. Upon reviewing the water we knew we were making a good decision to sit out the following day in anticipation of the day after which would have been Thursday 11/17.
 Anyway the center http://www.floridaocean.org/p/58/visit has a small air conditioned area with a few tanks of interest as well as a large outdoor pool containing several varieties of fish and a couple of different turtles. All in all it was an interesting stop that broke up the monotony of waiting out the weather that has refused to cooperate. The anticipation of happy hour only goes so far in that regard.
 Along with the pool there is an interesting walk around the facility that takes you through mangrove swamps and out to the lagoon side of the park. As we walked along the path we were constantly reminded of the fact that their are critters out here. Fish, tracks, and rustling sounds caught our attention all along the boardwalks and paths that took us through the swamps with the sulfuric smelling multi-colored waters fed by the decaying foliage. It wasn't offensive like the sulfur springs in Yellowstone Park. Just a hint of sulfur and fortunately there were no Golden Orb spiders hanging out above the path we were walking today. I hate walking into their webs.

 After finishing the trail and upon exiting the building towards the parking lot, we were again reminded of the fact that others inhabit the area. Florida with its warmer climate offers us a different set of living beings from those we are used to in the North East. As I walked down the steps leaving the park I was greeted by a snake that reared up as though it wanted to make a snack out of my foot. Deb elected to divert to an alternative set of stairs but I decided that moving forward was not much of a risk and as I did so, our new friend slithered off into the brush at the left of the stairs. Cheap entertainment and fun.
 And we can use that since we are going to be here an additional week. We originally thought that the Gulf Stream was going to be passable on 11/17 and yes that is the case but the Bahama Bank is going to be a mess Thursday evening into Friday and the following days. Even though the water on the bank is shallow, it still gets ugly and can turn a long day into a very wearing experience. Given the outlook we bailed out on a marginal crossing that would have left us stuck at West End for a week.
 Sometimes it's better to sit it out and we take some solace in the fact that there are others here of the same opine. Maybe next week.

Waiting on a "Window"

 Or how do we spend our time while the Atlantic churns.

 We've actually been ready to cross the Gulf Stream for a few days now but with seas approaching 12 feet recently we have elected to sit things out. Especially since our pain threshold is right at two feet. Call us wuzzy, but I double dog dare you to ride it out with us on Freedom in 4 to 6 confused seas. We've done it. We've learned.  Patience. This latest disturbance was dealt us by tropical storm Sean which made a mess of things for a while, and it seems there are additional disturbances in the form of cold fronts making their way this far South. So the Gulf Stream remains a place for those with strong stomachs or boats able to plow through it. It's not only the Gulf Stream that's rough.
 A mail transport named Legacy ran aground at Lynyard cay in the Abacos this week. Considering we  have received weather reports from them regarding passage of Whale Cay we wonder how they found themselves in such a horrific experience. Fortunately there was no loss of life and Legacy has been hauled off the reef at North Bar, and towed back to Marsh Harbour. We have transited this area and know it to be fickle, best left for calm seas. In spite of being inside the reef this is where we first experienced weightlessness on the bridge of Freedom.
 But it's all good since where we are we have a monthly rate, the condo has been sold, and we have the car with us as opposed to renting cars which we done have in the past. The serious issue here is not going out for dinner because the food at the marina restaurant smells great and based on our experience it also tastes terrific. Calamari at the bar is outstanding.
 Fortunately we are not alone here since there are several folks in a similar situation. We all have frequent conversations regarding the crossing which helps us temper the urge to get the crossing over with. We know this is supposed to be fun. A bit of an adventure yes, but fun. No one wants to take on more risk than they or their equipment can tolerate. While the "battle wagons" go out and crash through this weather, for the most part we are fair weather boaters that would find themselves in a very uncomfortable situation if we moved into this weather on the big water. We could easily take the boat South to Lake Worth and or Peanut island so as to be close to the inlet for an early morning departure, but why give up a monthly rate on the gamble of a very narrow window only to be stuck on the Bahama Bank waiting for better weather? Along those lines today's talk is centering around a crossing on Thursday the 17th but I look at this "weather window" as being quite narrow. Given that we know we will be caught in the stream with rough water, or, caught at a marina charging high fees for docking and utilities the rationale in favor of the crossing is weak at best. But it is a hurdle to surpass and always presents itself as a goal worth accomplishing regardless of the consequences. We look at it this way. Unless you can run at 25 knots you will be stuck at West End, Lucaya, or elsewhere waiting on weather to get around to the Abacos. Most weather windows at this time of year are not wide.
 So we plod along with additional preparations that don't need to be performed but we need to get out of the way. The dink has been hauled, cleaned and waxed. New registration numbers have been applied to the tubes and now all vehicles are registered in Florida. Provisioning has been accomplished but will have to be replenished.
 Anyway it's easy to while away a weekend when the local airport hosts an airshow. We were in the area at this time last year, and witnessed a F/A-18 Hornet buzzing around at very low altitudes. Cool. This year we had the privilege of seeing a restored P-51 in military color fly over head. I have to admit the jets are impressive when they fly over. The F-16 at full afterburner was clearly heard at the marina even though we had to be at least a couple of miles away. But that P-51 with it's old Merlin(?) sounded sweet as it entered steeply banked turns overhead. And then there was the surprise entry a MIG-17.
 All of these demonstrations were a pleasure to watch and commanded respect for the people that were willing to put on the show. Let's face it. Air shows have taken a hit this year with a number of accidental deaths caused by crashes. Nothing happened this weekend and we are all grateful for the show and its safe operation.

 So we wait. Could be a while. So what. Better to be safe.

Making ready for the Bahamas

 Here we are in Stuart Florida backed into slip C38. We had no idea how long we were going to be here and that made it rough on the dock master and his team with regard to scheduling of transient occupancy. Let's face it they want to accommodate everyone they can, but we were clueless. We knew we had work to get done on Freedom, as well as quite a bit of provisioning, but we had no idea how long this would take. What we did know was that the Gulf Stream was a mess and it was not going to lay down anytime soon. So we settled on "about a week".
 With that the first several days here blew by in a whirlwind of maintenance and shopping. The freezer was loaded as well as the refrigerator and pantry. And then it dawned on us that we needed a new laptop, the radar had to go back to Furuno, and several other areas needed substantial amounts of attention.
 After some agitated dialogue with Furuno the radar went back to the West coast for a second pass by the Furuno service team and came back in time given the evict order we originally had from the dock master. As it turned out it required a reworked CPU board because the connector that facilitated communication with the navigation chip card reader had failed during the rework we originally requested, in a couple of ways. We'll leave that item open for discussion in another forum. After getting it back a second time we were very pleased to see that the National service manager had dug in to find out what was going on and get it resolved. So while they may have lost a buck on it, the unit appears to be working now and perhaps everyone is happy.
 But before the radar/plotter was returned to us, I was working on the dink in the water in between Freedom's transom and the dock. I hear all this screaming and yelling up front, Deb comes running aft waving her arms and yelling at me like I should be doing something and it happened. The owner of the restaurant here had his boat resting against our bow pulpit crunching away at the paint and fiberglass. Swell I thought. Well, not really. That certainly isn't what came out of my mouth. The dock hand greeting the man covered her face and pulled her hat down over her face it was that bad. Settling down I went forward and directed him off our bow because he was obviously clueless given the tidal current and wind. Having helped him get off the bow of Freedom I then directed him into his new slip and it went smoothly enough. So we worked out a deal, and to their credit the staff here at the marina ran point for us and made it happen. Freedom had her face fixed and the bow pulpit scars are gone.
 These two prior items took their toll but then the battery issue cropped up again. With a new battery installed for the starboard engine it spins up very well thank you, and the list of concerns is  reduced.   
 That is until we were asked to move to another slip. This is all part of not knowing how long you are going to be staying at a popular marina. If this was a no-name marina we probably would have been good to go for a month but the notion of foul weather slowing everyone up combined with the fact that this is a desirable place to be, made for competition of boat slips. And we moved so we could stay here winding up in C44. Mind you, we moved but the projected new slip owners have yet to arrive. Fast forward we are now in D15 and the new owners for both of the slips we left have yet to arrive. At least we did it in good form without hitting other boats. This in spite of having a mega yacht about 60 or so feet off the bow when we pulled out of C44. A little planning help us get this done easily. All one has to do is review the wind and tide before moving. Just sayin'.
 It's all good because at this point we have a great view in a quiet area of the marina. Works for us. And more work is getting done. Not all of it by me. In fact, the collapsible stair system we have has casters on it that squeak. They squeaked so much a neighboring boat owner snuck up on them and oiled them. Twice. But he was ok with that because he saw how I was coming out of Freedom's bilge on a regular basis and did not have the heart to push the issue.
 After a number of days that combined to reduce my bulk by about 5 pounds we had the good fortune to be invited aboard some friends boat to commiserate and imbibe while watching the Giants win with scant seconds left on the clock.
 Then it was Sunday and the Farmer's Market was active in Old Stuart. It's a small quaint section of Stuart Florida that is on the shore of the St. Lucie River on the East side of the U.S. route 1 bridge to Jensen Beach. It wasn't as large as what we had in Kingston N.Y. but we found some great vegetables and fruit at reasonable prices. White eggplant, peppers, oranges, and various other selections filled up our bags before we left to return to Freedom where Deb went to work on a grilled eggplant, tomato and mozzarella cheese stack for lunch.
 Life is good. Freedom is approaching stability and so are we.