Settling into the Elbow

 We've been on Elbow Cay a little over three weeks now and we're getting acclimated to life on the boat again. It's about time we were getting used to the boating life given we've been aboard Freedom for 6 weeks.
 Initially the temperature was warm and the wind light. Without a functional generator we were concerned about our supplies since the inverter's bank of batteries is finite. We rarely let the inverter drain them for more than 12 hours before we give them a complete recharge. At 1200 dollars for a set of batteries we like to go easy on them. If another storm caused an extended power outage we were going to be in a difficult position that depended on one of the alternators associated with the engines. While they have decent output at 90 amps, running up the engine to charge the batteries would certainly make enemies in the harbour. So after removing the bad parts from the generator we knew what we needed and ordered them from Don Hillman Power Systems in Fort Lauderdale.
 I have to admit they were very good at locating the parts and getting them out to us in very short order. Normally marine parts are not subject to import duties so we were surprised to see a couple of hundred dollars tacked on to the package by Fedex! As it turned out the documentation we shipped over via email was somehow removed from the package thus there was no proof that I purchased it, and that it was bound for a boat. That meant I had to pay the duty or the parts would go back to the States. After some emails and phone calls, Don Hillman Power stepped up and reimbursed us for the duty charges while they work out the issue with Fedex. With all of the parts installed and the system flushed out, new antifreeze poured in, the genny fired up and ran a good load for an hour so it seems that situation has been resolved.
 That resolution put our minds at ease and we moved on to important things like beach combing, hooking up with the gang over here again, refinishing teak, and generally speaking, chilling out.
 As a matter of beach combing we have walked the entire East Coast of Elbow Cay and while there is a noticeable change in the dunes, most of the houses were not damaged by Hurricane Sandy. However the bulldozer is back pushing sand back into place for the second year in a row. Some houses seem to be particularly prone to beach erosion due to their location with respect to reef structures or the lack there of. However workers are busy getting things back into shape and it won't be long before it's difficult to tell Sandy was in town.

 Houses located a little off the beach dunes were much better off as usual. Curly Tail's place remains unscathed offering him the luxury of basking in the sun outside the front door while others are sweating out repairs, improvements or accelerated maintenance. I thought we had the life but then we saw this place and wondered what his career was that left him so well off. Beer on the upper deck, two cars, a plane and a boat in the yard as well. Life's good. The lizard has been here at least 5 years that I know of and I have to admit he keeps this place well. That is, in spite of all the storms the place still looks great.

 But enough of the affects Sandy had on the Cay, it was our good fortune to get a day of calm winds leading to flat water on the Sea of Abaco and that can only mean one thing. Get out in the dink. With that we took off in Madonna and went around the West side of Lubbers to one of Deb's favorite shelling beaches. It wasn't long before we found a number of interesting shells to add to our collection. Moving on from Lubbers we headed South West until we arrived at Snake Cay inlet. This spot generally offers some excellent views of spotted rays but today there were none around. It could have been the run about that shot into the inlet before us but I am thinking the tide was dead low and they left for deeper waters. Since the view lacked the usual water life we left and went back North and stopped in at Lubbers Landing on the East side of Lubbers Cay.
 Here we split a fish burger and had a beverage while enjoying the excellent view of Tiloo Cut.Once lunch was finished we finished up our day on the water with the ride back to Hope Town.

The Trip to Hope Town

 As to how this trip stands up against those past, generally speaking we had an excellent ride weather wise. We chose to move the boat with the weather and ignore some maintenance until we arrived in our slip at the Hope Town Inn and Marina. This meant a quick departure from North Fort Myers on 10/16 when we saw a Gulf Stream crossing opportunity approaching on the upcoming weekend. We hustled out and made our way across Lake Okeechobee only to discover a raw water pump failed on the port engine. This was a God send because it forced us to skip the opportunity to cross the Gulf Stream in very favorable conditions. While the crossing would have been very calm, staying in the Bahamas during a hurricane like Sandy leaves a little to be desired.
 Fortunately, we did not have to wait long for another opportunity to cross the Gulf Stream  and the folks at Sunset Bay were their usually great hosts allowing us to take advantage of the monthly dockage rate. In spite of being stuck there for hurricane Sandy and being stuck on the boat for an extended time, it all worked out very well. With the wind blowing 30 to 40 knots we were constantly being blown off the dock which stretched the lines and prevented us from keeping the stairs installed. Since I have long legs I could get onto the dock and bicycle for supplies but Deb was stuck aboard rocking around 24/7 for at least three days. Cabin fever was evident and constant. The lines had to be tweaked regularly and chafe guards had to be re-installed as well.
 But we caught another great weather window on  11/3 and left Sunset Bay for the North Palm Beach marina where we spent the night in anticipation of leaving for West End early the next day. We had been kicking around whether or not to leave on Monday or Tuesday but once again the threat of bad weather closing the window left us no option but to pick Sunday as the departure day and so it was. Out on the water early we had the sun right into our faces and it was warm. We were glad when the sun rose enough to be blocked by the hard top over the helm. Initially as we looked out at the horizon we saw calm water and continued on. Instead of the 1-2 feet of waves at 12 seconds which would have been very calm we had 2 feet at about 4-6 seconds, on the beam, and we rolled. Not terribly but enough to make walking around aboard Freedom challenging.
 However once we were in the Gulf Stream several miles off shore, things settled down and the ride was comfortable. Moving around on Freedom became much easier so the monotony of sitting in one spot for 8 hours was not required. In fact, I was able to leave the helm for a break once in a while. When the water is rough Dan has to stay put since the Admiralty does not enjoy driving the boat in those conditions.
 Arriving at West End we fueled up and cleared customs. I have to admit customs at West End seems to be one of the better experiences. Even on a Sunday. No extra "charges" were incurred and we were in our slip at a 25% discount thanks to our membership in the Royal Marsh Harbour Yacht Club. http://www.rmhyc.com/ If you boat in the Abacos joining up is a very good idea. Plenty of good folks and activities at Boat Harbour. We didn't walk around Old Bahama Bay much because we intended to stay one night and take advantage of the good weather to cross Little Bahama Bank to the East Side. Having stayed at Spanish Cay in the past that was our plan but calling ahead we learned they were still recovering from Sandy and could not offer good services at that time. Hopefully they have resolved the weeds in the water issue and their restaurant has re-opened. Not being able to stop at Spanish increased the length of our days travel to 100 nautical miles.

 Even though we left with the dawn our arrival at Green Turtle was projected to be after sunset and that turned out to be the case. If the weather had been foul our option to continue on would have been less appealing and perhaps have us staying at Great Sale or Crab Cay for the evening. But it was indeed very calm. The water was cloudy which made the long day stretch out a bit but since it was so calm and overcast it turned out to be an easy passage. The sky was so overcast and hazy that at times we could not discern the horizon and this made for an amusing moment. Of in the distance I saw and airplane coming at us and thought we were going to get buzzed yet again. What this was in reality was a boat coming at us. A smack on the back of my head brought me back from the doldrums of driving the boat all day in flat water.
 And if that didn't happen the alarm that started blaring would have done it anyway. We have an alarm on the boat that sounds for various reasons like oil pressure, high water, etc.. It can also be enabled to sound if the generator fails and we lose A.C. voltage. That happened and I quickly turned the helm over to Deb and went down into the salon area which was air conditioned. Not really wanting to open up the hatch that is over the space between the engines, I did anyway and a thick cloud of burnt rubber smelling smoke wafted up into our living room.
 Swell. That could mean fire.
 There was none and that was a very good thing because we were only half way to Green Turtle a little beyond Great Sale Cay. Seeing no fire or other immediate danger, I cracked the generator enclosure and found that the belt driving the antifreeze pump had parted company with the pulleys and was laying in pieces on the floor of the enclosure. So I shut the water inlet for the generator down, opened the windows and aired out the boat to get it habitable again. And we continued on with our stand by power inverter driving the freezer and ice maker. This change in our abilities forced the notion we were going to continue to Green Turtle upon us. Seeing boats wrecked by Sandy along the way we were not exactly encouraged.
 When we finally arrived at Green Turtle Cay the sun had set and our plotters had us going directly towards the inlet. Feeling unsure of the passage since reports indicated missing markers, we moved on and to our pleasant surprise the first two makers into White Sound were lit! Deb had our search light on the remaining markers and we made our way up to the Green Turtle Club docks where we spent the night yet again receiving a very good discount but this one came as a surprise to us. As it turned out they gave us a stout break because they were still recovering from Sandy and their restaurant was also closed.
 The next morning we took our time leaving the club which survived Sandy really well. They were busy putting in some new floors, drying out office supplies and memorabilia. Upon arriving at the Whale Cay channel we found water calmer than any we have ever experienced there and that was a relief. So our weather window was cooperative and we made it to the Hope Town Inn and Marina without any more issues, well almost. We filled up Freedom and the cost of fuel was 5.72 or so. At 120 gallons it adds up fast.
 In light of that last issue we decided, it's only money and went to lunch at the Hope Town Inn and Marina where Deb enjoyed the red conch chowder, and I had a blackened Mahi Rolly Polly. With a couple of cold ones, life was good!    

And it's time once again

 Normally we would leave the North East or more specifically the Kingston N.Y. area at this time of year and head South to Freedom which was stored on the hard somewhere in Florida. Since we sold the condo back last October and we were homeless over the Winter, and living on the boat over most of the Summer, we had no fall colors to fill our eyes this year. Oh well. Freedom stayed in the water except for a brief haul for bottom paint and other maintenance. Given all of these changes this view of the Caloosahatchee River during a regatta will have to suffice. This is a sunrise view as opposed to the usual sunset photos from the condo in Port Ewen we have provided in the past. But I like it. Instead of the sun going down in the Fall signifying the end of a day, what we have here is a good deal of energy heading out onto the river on sailboats at the beginning of a day.

 Mind you, this first photo is not an all encompassing view. In fact, it doesn't even cover a quarter of the boats that were on their way out onto the river. Maybe this second photo lends a little insight, but in my opinion, you had to be there to take it in. This was a wave of small sailboats all heading out at once. It makes me wonder what the shoreline activities were like because the number of boats leaving from the same location was very high. But it all looks like it went off very well. The winds were predictable and steady leading to what looked like an easy sail away from shore and onto the river.
 So instead of driving South with a carload of supplies for Winter, what we did have was the business of locating a new condo as well as the associated activities. We had to have the POD shipped South and unpack it. Then we flew North and rented a truck so we could drive the remaining furnishings stored by relatives in NYS back South. By the way this was a slightly better than "break even" task economically speaking.  If we had to do it again, we probably would have left it all behind with relatives and back filled it down here in Florida.
 With all of that behind us, we pulled out of the marina with Freedom loaded to the over the side thruhull fittings. There wasn't any room left aboard for supplies. I have to admit the chore of loading Freedom went much more easily this year because of the boat's proximity to the home. New batteries for the inverter went in with the help of my brother. Jon, I cannot thank you enough! Only 157 pounds each going into a very bad location in the bilge. Additionally various groceries and a freezer full also found their way aboard before we left for the East coast of Florida. As the time to leave approached we saw a window to get to the Abacos that was wide and calm. It was just what we were looking for to make the journey. We had shipments coming in and decided to leave them behind hoping our new neighbors would forward them along for us.The opportunity to get to the Abacos in three days of easy travel does not come frequently. Besides we wanted to scope out the Alligators on the canal across Florida. Even the large ones were shy this year and we were lucky to see a few swimming away from us as we approached them as slowly as we could.
 As it turned out, Freedom spit out a raw water cooling pump going across the Lake. It wasn't a very serious failure and thankfully it happened in fresh water. We were able to run on both engines all the way to Stuart where we stayed at the Sunset Bay Marina. A very accommodating place where Sam the dockmaster makes life easy and everyone looks to help. But that is our impression of living in Florida vs. the North East in general. It seems people are more pleasant down here because they don't have to deal with Winter. Anyway, the water pump set us back a day and we still could have crossed to the Bahamas that Saturday. However, with a new subscription to Chris Parker's weather service we learned that a low was going to develop and move through the Bahamas. His forecast was spot on, and convinced us that we should stay put since we lost the 3rd day of the window we needed to get to Hope Town.
 We all know how that turned out. Hurricane Sandy formed. It hammered the Abacos and moved on to wreak havoc in the North East United States. What a mess. It's difficult to comes to terms with the devastation this storm caused in the marine industry let alone housing. But then, they all had to know they were close to the shore and rolling the dice. Look out, yet again, a Nor' Easter is forming and this could be #2 in the 1-2 series. We certainly hope not!
 Stalling for a week due to a water pump was the best thing that could have happened to us. Eventually another window opened up, and we moved the boat to North Palm Beach, sat there a nite, and then early in the morning we moved to West End the Bahamas.
 It seems they fared well over here as far as Sandy goes. There is damage, but Old Bahama Bay is open for business and grateful to get any our sour economy is willing to deliver.